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Tommy J. DeBardeleben

Upper East Verde River, Whispering Pines, and Washington Park Area

This birding area lies in the northwestern section of Gila County and is below the Mogollon Rim.  It has a range of habitats to explore, as well as birds to encounter.  One of the main highlights is the East Verde River.  This drainage is bordered by great riparian habitat, from cottonwood and willow settings in the lower recreation areas and sycamore stands in the higher sections.  Chaparral and juniper habitat are prevelant in lower elevations within the area.  Most of this area falls within open forest of pine, oak, and juniper as the dominant habitat.  There is an unlimited amount of habitat for birders to survey birds in here with easy access to forests as many side roads branch off from main roads.  In the higher elevations of this area, there are much thicker forests that contain a mix of pine, fir, oak, and aspen.  Drainages that extend south of the Mogollon Rim make for some of the best birding in this area, especially the hike along the East Verde River north of the Washington Park Trailhead, East Webber Creek, and the much more rugged Dude Creek.

Some of the typical birds to find in this area include: In the riparian areas along the East Verde River south of Whispering Pines birds to expect include Common Black-Hawk, Cassin's Kingbird, Yellow-breasted Chat, Hooded Oriole, Yellow Warbler, Summer Tanager, and Blue Grosbeak.  In open pine, oak, and juniper forest along with chaparral components look for Acorn and Hairy Woodpeckers, Western Wood-Pewee, Ash-throated Flycatcher, Gray Flycatcher, Hutton's and Plumbeous Vireos, Mexican Jay, Bushtit, White-breasted and Pygmy Nuthatches, Blue-gray Gnatcatcher, Western Bluebird, Black-throated Gray, Virginia's and Grace's Warblers; Hepatic Tanager and Spotted Towhee.  In the thicker mixed coniferous forest and drainages of higher elevations, some of the birds include Band-tailed Pigeon, Broad-tailed Hummingbird, Downy Woodpecker, Greater Pewee, Cordilleran Flycatcher, Warbling Vireo, Steller's Jay, Red-breasted Nuthatch, Brown Creeper, Painted Redstart, Red-faced Warbler, Western Tanager, and Black-headed Grosbeak.  Other than birds, this area is heavily populated with Elk.  An early morning drive through the area more-often-than-not results in seeing high numbers of these impressive animals.

Directions:  To access this area, directions will be given from two access points to where an overall driving loop can be completed.  One access point is Houston Mesa Road.  In the town of Payson, head north on Highway 87 from it's junction with Highway 260 for two miles to Houston Mesa Road.  Turn right (east) on Houston Mesa Road to access the "Houston Mesa Campground to East Verde River Recreation Sites" (see more on page below).  Follow Houston Mesa Road for up to 10.1 miles to Forest Road 64.  Forest Road 64 is the second access point, and it is accessed from the Houston Mesa Road route or from Highway 87.  FR 64 can be taken east and west from it's intersection with Houston Mesa Road.  Follow it east for a few miles for the eastern limit of this area, and west for 10 miles to where it ends at Highway 87.  Distance wise, if driving Houston Mesa Road and FR 64 both in their respective distances within the limit of this area, it amounts to a twenty mile loop drive.  If accessing FR 64 from Highway 87, the turnoff will be just north of mile marker 265 on the east side of the highway, 13 miles north of Payson.

 

BIRDING LOCATIONS

Houston Mesa Campground to East Verde River Recreation Sites

-A six dollar fee is required to bird at the East Verde River Recreation Sites that include Water Wheel Falls and the First through Third Crossings.

-Houston Mesa Campground:  This campground is situated in ponderosa pine and oak forest, and typical birds of that habitat setting such as Acorn Woodpecker, White-breasted Nuthatch, and Western Bluebird can be found.  If birding in the area, it can be a good place to stay.  Once turning east on Houston Mesa Road from Highway 87 (see main directions above), the turnoff to the campground will be a short 0.3 miles away on the north side of Houston Mesa.

-Grassland Area:  After heading east on Houston Mesa Road from Highway 87 for 2.6 miles, look on both sides of the road at the grassland habitat.  The east side of the road harbors more habitat than the west, both both sides are worth exploring.  Watch for migratory sparrows and perhaps keep an ear out for Pinyon Jays as the surrounding habitat is vegetated with pinyon pine and juniper habitat.

-Shoofly Village Ruins:  Shoofly Village Ruins represents an historic site to walk around on short trails to see examples of how people used to live in villages years ago.  It can also be a fun birding site, and it is surrounded with junper and pinyon pine habitat.  Pinyon Jay has been found here, and the trails are a good place to observe species like Juniper Titmouse, Woodhouse's Scrub-Jay, and Bushtit.  Shoofly Village Ruins is accessed by taking Houston Mesa Road for 2.9 miles east of Highway 87, and the turnoff will be on the east side of Houston Mesa Road.

-East Verde River-1st Crossing Day Use Area:  This is the first of four day use areas if heading east and north up Houston Mesa Road from Highway 87.  The First Crossing Day Use Area is at 6.9 miles along the way, and it is a very under-birded location.  Along this immediate spot, the East Verde River has attractive willow and cottonwood stands in midst of juniper woodland and chaparral habitats that are worth exploring.  Bring an old pair of shoes to wade down the river in places.  Just to the west of this location along the East Verde River is the small unincorporated town of Beaver Valley, where a remarkable and storm-driven Red-billed Tropicbird was once discovered and eventually taken to a wildlife rehabilitation center.

-East Verde River-Water Wheel Falls Recreation Site:  Water Wheel Falls is a very popular recreation site and has a well-traveled trail that leads to a waterfall and impressive scenery.  Although it is a famous location for recreationists, it also has good potential for birding.  Juniper woodland and chaparral continue to be the surrounding habitat away from the river, but the riparian near the river consisting largely of sycamore and cottonwood is impressive.  Breeding birds here include Common Black-Hawk, Cassin's Kingbird, Canyon and Bewick's Wrens, Yellow-breasted Chat, Hooded Oriole, Yellow Warbler, Summer Tanager, and Blue Grosbeak.  Water Wheel Falls Recreation site is 7.5 miles of driving on Houston Mesa Road after the turnoff from Highway 87.

-East Verde River-2nd Crossing Day Use Area:  At 8.2 miles of driving on Houston Mesa Road after turning off of Highway 87, the Second Crossing Day Use Area can be accessed.  The climb in elevation here accesses ponderosa pine and oak forest as the dominant habitat, and the riverside riparian is dominated by Arizona sycamore.  Look for pine/oak loving species here like Acorn Woodpecker, White-breasted and Pygmy Nuthatches, and Plumbeous Vireo, as well as species who favor the nearby shrubby habitat like Virginia's Warbler and Spotted Towhee.

-East Verde River-3rd Crossing Day Use Area:  This day use area seems to be more of a productive birding area than the former Second Crossing Day Use Area.  It has a lusher forest environment with thicker stands of ponderosa pine and oak, as well as a continued stretch of Arizona sycamore trees lining the East Verde River.  Look for a good variety of pine loving birds in the woods, as well as an eye out for Common Black-Hawk in spring and summer.  This location comes at 8.9 miles of driving on Houston Mesa Road from it's intersection with Highway 87.

Contining past Third Crossing Day Use Area and heading north on Houston Mesa Road, the route travels through the small community of Whispering Pines until Houston Mesa Road ends at 10.1 miles at it's intersection with Forest Road 64.  This intersection will also be used as a reference point.  FR 64 can be taken west for 10 miles to Highway 87, just south of the Pine Trailhead (Just north of MM 265)

Whispering Pines and Washington Park Area

This area is a fun one to bird and explore.  Aside from the main roads through the area, there are many other smaller forest roads that are mainly for hiking and ATV use.  They are fun to explore as well.  Most of the habitat makeup in this area consists of ponderosa pine, juniper, and Gambel's oak.  In places where the East Verde River comes into play, large stands of sycamore trees line the river.  At Washington Park, the forests increase in elevaton and fall within more narrow and shadier draws.  The forest here is dominated by thick stands of both pine and fir.  Both Whispering Pines and Washington Park have scattered communities within the area and private properties.  Despite the private properties, there is an abundance of public grounds to bird on within the Tonto National Forest.

The Whispering Pines and Washington Park Area will be defined by Forest Road 64 to points from west to east with the western limit of FR 64 being at it's intersection with Forest Road 32.  Forest Road 32 heads north and northeast to Washington Park.  For the eastern limit of this area, we'll still stay on Forest Road 64, but will extend the road and it's limits for several miles east of it's intersection with Houston Mesa Road in the area previously described and to the south of Whispering Pines and Washington Park.  Several side roads and birding spots will be described that are along Forest Roads 64 and 32 within this area.  If one is exploring this area and sees a forest road that isn't described, it's still worth exploring!

-Forest Road 32 to Forest Road 32-A:  We'll start with this Forest Road, which is accessed from Forest Road 64, 0.6 miles west of 64's intersection with Houston Mesa Road.  Forest Road 32 will go north and east for about 3.5 miles until it's intersection with Forest Road 32-A in Washington Park.  Almost all of this area is made up of pine and oak.  There are tons of side roads to bird and explore.  After 1.3 miles of driving on FR 32, the road crosses Chase Creek (click on name to access eBird hotspot).  This is an easy hike to walk on as there is a road on the south side of FR 32 and east side of the creek, and there is also Forest Road 437 on the north side of FR 32 west and before Chase Creek is crossed.  This road heads north for a mile before it dead ends at a private ranch.  The ranch has open fields that can be viewed from the road and fence, and the open habitat attracts Common Nighthawks on summer evenings.  For the birder wanting to bird Chase Creek by day, a selection of species in pine, oak, and juniper habitat selections will be encountered.  Continue north and east on Forest Road 32 for a few more miles past Chase Creek, and at 3.3 miles from FR 64 the turnoff to the Washington Park Trailhead via FR 32-A is accessed (which will be described next).  Stay straight to stay on FR 32 and drive for another 0.6 miles until the road ends at the gate for the tiny community of Washington Park.  Park along the road before the gate and bird the forest alongside the road, which can be productive.  At this point, the general pine and oak habitat that fills this area is joined by thick stands of both fir and pine.

-Washington Park Trailhead:  At the Washington Park turnoff after 3.3 miles of driving on FR 32 from FR 64, take FR 32-A for a mile to the Washington Park Trailhead.  This is a beautiful area, and along with pine and oak forest, thick stands of pine and fir and some aspen are found in the shady draws near the upper reaches of the East Verde River.  The river lines Forest Road 32-A at this point, and anywhere along the mile of the road offers good birding up until the trail head is accessed.  At the trailhead, there are two directions of longer trails to take (north and south), but for the best results for birding, take the Colonel Booker Trail #290 to the north toward the Mogollon Rim.  The trail is gorgeous, extends above the Rim and into Coconino County, and is great for a variety of forest birds.  Some of the birds of many one may see here in spring and summer are Downy Woopecker, Cordilleran Flycatcher, Warbling Vireo, all three Nuthatches, Brown Creeper, Virginia's, Grace's, and Red-faced Warblers; Painted Redstart, Western Tanager, and Indigo Bunting.

*Locations along FR 64 east of Houston Mesa Road

-Verde Glen Day Use Area:  Tracing back to the interesction of FR 64/Houston Mesa Road, head east on FR 64 for a short distance of about 0.3 miles.  On the north side of the road and along the East Verde River, look for some parking areas along the way that are designated for day use.  The river is lined with stands of sycamore trees, and the usual pine and oak forests fill the rest of the surroundings.

-Schneider Trail Road Day Use Area:  This site is very close to the previously described site, and it has the same habitat.  When on Forest Road 64 at 0.5 miles east of the Houston Mesa Road Intersection, take Forest Road 199 to the north (first left).  Follow this road for about a mile until the day use area is reached, or it can make for a nice hike along the East Verde River.

-Dude Creek:  Dude Creek is one of the best birding locations, if not the best, in this entire area.  Take FR 64 east past it's intersection with Houston Mesa Road for 1.5 miles to FR 195 on the north side of FR 64.  Make a left on FR 195, and find a spot to pull off and park within the early stages of the road.  It's not before long that this road is extremely rough for vehicle travel.  Once parked, one will hike towards Dude Creek (study map by clicking on eBird link that is provided, where a link to the map itself is accessed).  For this location, an eBird checklist that was made during a long expedition of this area can be found by clicking HERE.  This checklist can be used as a map for an overlook of Dude Creek, as well as how to access the creek.  While in the field and once the creek is found, it is straightforward to follow.  The start of Dude Creek is roughly at these coordinates: (34.388665, -111.264379), and goes in the northeastern direction from the coordinates.  The beginning stretches are moderate to follow and stay within pine, oak, and juniper settings, and the draw that harbors Dude Creek starts to drastically narrow as distance is traveled and the terrain becomes rougher and becomes ground for the intrepid birder.  Thick pine, oak, and fir forest become dominant along the creek and slopes of the terrain that surround the creek, and navigation requires one to cross the creek multiple times, as well as hike through rougher terrain.  The creek extends up to the Mogollon Rim, and is probably fed from Dude Lake, which is just above the Rim.  Dude Creek features waterfalls in season and is of high scenic beauty.  Bird life is abundant in spring and summer, take a look at the checklist link provided.  During the exploration, the variety of birds were outstanding, and the favorite highlight was a high count for Greater Pewee.  If hiking up Dude Creek, a point of interest that will be encountered is it's intersection with the popular Highline Trail.

Forest Road 64 west (From Highway 87 to Forest Road 32)

This will highlight some locations that can be accessed from Forest Road 64 that are west of Forest Road 32 up until Highway 87.  Aside from what will be mentioned, there is a lot to explore in this section of the area.  Highway 87 and FR 32 will be used as common reference points for distance on this section of the area.  FR 64 can be accessed just north of Mile Marker 265 of Highway 87 north of Payson, and just south of the town of Pine.  On the other hand, one is in this section of the area if continuing west of Forest Road 64's interection with Forest Road 32 when driving west of Whispering Pines.  Forest Road 64 is a very well maintained road, and it's distance during this stretch from west to east of Highway 87 to the FR 32 intersecton is 9.3 miles. 

-FR 440 and Geronimo Trailhead and Trails:  Forest Road 440 accesses a great section of this area to bird in, and trails to hike.  It's intersection with FR 64 comes at 5.8 miles after heading east on FR 64 from Highway 87 (vise versa 3.5 miles west of FR 64 and FR 32 intersection).  Take FR 440 north to near where public access is cut off at the base to the Boy Scout Camp, Camp Geronimo.  Before the camp is reached, there is the Geronimo Trailhead.  En route to this ending point, Webber Creek (a creek that flows down from the Rim) parallels FR 440 and is lined with extensive sycamore-riparian in midst of pine and oak forest.  The creek has wet and dry spots, and these two miles along FR 440 are worth exploring themselves.  However, the previously mentioned Geronimo Trailhead and Geronimo Trail # 240 (eBird hotspot) accesses the best birding opportunities that this location has to offer.  Take the Geronimo Trail (part of the Arizona Trail) west of FR 440 for up to 2.5 miles.  It has riparian habitat along Webber Creek and pine, oak, and juniper forest to start the hike before getting into some stands of mixed conifer forest.  At the end of the 2.5 mile Geronimo Trail, it comes to an intersection with several other trails that include the East Webber Trail # 289 as well as the Turkey Springs Trail # 217.  While two trails, including Turkey Springs, extend up to the northwest towards the Mogollon Rim in a shorter hiking disance than the northeastern direction-based East Webber Trail, the latter offers the best birding out of them all.  Take the East Webber Trail for over three miles that span around the north side of the large Camp Geronimo that continue up through a hike that has challenging sides to it.  If taking the East Webber Trail, Webber Creek lines much of the trail and it's a beautiful drainage to hike along with some large pools that are good for swimming and boy scout made signs for a well-marked trail.  Dense coniferous forests surround the drainage of Webber Creek and are on the canyon slopes the birder will walk through that increasingly narrow as one ascends towards the Mogollon Rim on this trail.  If back at the Geronimo Trailhead on FR 440, a trailhead for a portion of the Highline Trail can also be accessed, and is on the east side of the road from the trailhead.

-FR 458:  This road offers a short hike to the community of Geronimo Estates.  It makes for good roadside birding in similar habitat to the first two public miles of FR 440.  Speaking of FR 440, it is directly across the street from FR 440 and on the south side of FR 64.

-FR 439 and East Bray Creek:  FR 439 is worth exploring and has similar habitats to FR 440 and the Geronimo Trailhead.  FR 439 comes at 6.6 miles of driving east on FR 64 from Highway 87 (or vise versa at 2.7 miles after driving west on FR 64 past it's intersection with FR 32).  FR 439 is very rough along it's beginning stretches, and for most vehicles it is best to park and walk north up the road.  Hike up FR 439 for up to two miles until public access can't go any further when the road reaches the private Bray Creek Ranch.  East Bray Creek parallels FR 439 the entire way, and as one explores they will see that this is another drainage that starts in an open pine and oak forest and as it increases in elevation, the drainage narrows and has much thicker and shadier surrounding forest with pine, oak, and Douglas fir.  Look for other roads off of FR 439 to branch off of and bird along if time permits. 

The entire area on this page has much to explore, it would take forever to include every little side road or trail that this area just below the Mogollon Rim has to explore.

 

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